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{ Tag Archives } dirt roads

crossings

CHILE/ARGENTINA: VILLA O’HIGGENS — CANDELERIO MANCILLA — EL CHALTEN Lakes, borders, bridges: there are always crossings to be made. The route between Villa O’Higgens and El Chalten is somewhat famous or infamous, depending on your predilections. * None of us felt the urge** to try the trail by Lago del Desierto as an alternative to […]

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the forest foray

CHILE/ARGENTINA: CHILLÁN — PEMUCO — YANGAY — ANTUCO — SANTA BABARA — RALCO — LEPOY –LANQUIMAY — ICALMA — CUNCO — VILLARRICA — PUCON — COÑARIPE — PASO CARIRRIÑE — SAN MARTIN DE LOS ANDES — TRUFEL — SAN CARLOS DE BARILOUCHE * “When I was younger, I was a stock trader…,” was his somewhat […]

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el silencio

PERÚ: CAJATAMBO — OYON — YARAJHUANCA — HAUYLLAY — ONDORES — JUNIN I emerge from the Huayhaush in something of a state: I am becoming more than a little upset and confused by my status as a gringa tourist in Perú. My fundamental discomfort with tourism and the tourist industry is normally relatively neatly sidestepped […]

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maps, mountains, mines

PERŨ: HUAMACHUCO — PAMPAS — CONCHUCOS — SIHUAS I’ve been studying Tom and Sarah’s excellent blog for route ideas in this part of Perú and shamelessly stealing them. Thanks for blazing the way, guys!

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pre-industrial

PERÚ: CAJAMARCA — CAJABAMBA Ah, mountains! The sky. The road. The people. In Perú, in the mountains you enter a pre-industrial world. On the roads between Cajamarca and Cajabamba I am passed by half a dozen combustion engine vehicles, at the most. And while some villages are on the grid, just about everything is still […]

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chimborazo

It’s a long climb out of Salinas to approach Chimborazo but its a beautiful ride. Sometimes I just can’t help wanting it all. Despite having to backtrack 12km on the highway I rode yesterday, then head 20km north on the Ambato – Guaranda highway when, overall, I am trying to move southwards, and in the […]

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entering ecuador

First impressions of Ecudaor…

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ahhh…mountains…

Once my bike is back in shape – wheel relaced and gears changing smoothly – I’m keen to get on the road. Manuel tells me about a trocha* which drops below Armenia (de Antioquia, not to be confused with various other Armenias both in Colombia and beyond) down to the Cauca Valley, which he thinks […]

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meeting kelly and kurt (or a honduran photo story)

I can’t remember when Kelly first wrote to me but by the time it looks like we will finally meet an extensive correspondence between us already exists. When I leave my friend Lindsey in El Salvador it is to meet Kelly, who is travelling with her partner, Kurt. I set off with around five days […]

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mud glorious mud

After my tour of the Santo Tomas caves, I return to Vinales. I find the local market and stock up on food; my prize purchase is a giant watermelon which I struggle to strap onto my bike rack on top of my tent. I pass through the town and catch sight of an English woman […]

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