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western europe: connections and disconnections

I have to confess that Western Europe passed by in a bit of a blur and the experience was a little strange. On one hand it was just like home, I mean I’ve actually lived in a lot of these countries and have friends, family and even possessions, dotted about the place, but on the […]

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perito moreno

ARGENTINA: EL GLACIAR PERITO MORENO Yes, it is a tourist circus. Yes, it’s ridiculously expensive. But don’t let that stop you going: — Perito Moreno is a thing of wonder and beauty that nothing can really detract from.

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lamb

ARGENTINA: EL CHALTEN When a group of hungry cyclists get together things can get out of hand. A fourteen kilo lamb and fourteen people. That makes sense, doesn’t it? The only other thing on the menu was bread. And wine.

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crossings

CHILE/ARGENTINA: VILLA O’HIGGENS — CANDELERIO MANCILLA — EL CHALTEN Lakes, borders, bridges: there are always crossings to be made. The route between Villa O’Higgens and El Chalten is somewhat famous or infamous, depending on your predilections. * None of us felt the urge** to try the trail by Lago del Desierto as an alternative to […]

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the forest foray

CHILE/ARGENTINA: CHILLÁN — PEMUCO — YANGAY — ANTUCO — SANTA BABARA — RALCO — LEPOY –LANQUIMAY — ICALMA — CUNCO — VILLARRICA — PUCON — COÑARIPE — PASO CARIRRIÑE — SAN MARTIN DE LOS ANDES — TRUFEL — SAN CARLOS DE BARILOUCHE * “When I was younger, I was a stock trader…,” was his somewhat […]

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giant telescopes, multiple moons, baking and general christmas cheer

ARGENTINA: CALINGASTA — EL LEONCITO — USPALLATA — MENDOZA (VIA 52) The festive season is upon us again. I spent last Christmas all at sea but an invitation from my friends, Sarah and James, promise to make this one a cosier experience. When I finally catch them up in Calingasta, we stock up for celebratory […]

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a day (or three) out with the pikes

CHILE: SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA — VOLCAN SAIRECUBAR — SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA Harriet and Neil Pike are fast becoming legendary among touring cyclists for their incredible high altitude routes in the Andes. I have had the good fortune to encounter these guys, and spend time with them, in Huaraz and then catch up again […]

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rail trail, bolivian style: (or, the best laid plans…)

BOLIVIA: UYUNI — SAN JUAN — SAN AUGUSTIN After almost a week of planning, bike maintenance, shopping and eating in Uyuni, we are ready to set off again. The plan – a simple one – is to cycle from Uyuni to San Pedro de Atacama in north-west Chile via a route known as Las Lagunas, […]

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feeding frenzy

BOLIVIA: UYUNI One of the things that I enjoy a lot about cycle touring is being able to eat as much as you like of whatever you like. A family sized pizza? No, problem. Chocolate by the box? Go for it. Breakfast, second breakfast, elevenses, lunch, an afternoon snack, ice-cream, two servings for dinner. It […]

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salt

BOLIVIA: PISIGA –SALAR DE COIPASA — LLICA — SALAR DE UYUNI — UYUNI After our pit-stop to refuel in Pisiga, we head out for more salt. The second salar we encounter is the Salar de Coipasa, more expansive and drier than Surire in Chile. *See here for the dream cafetera that would provide all of […]

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