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{ Tag Archives } hospitality

real italian expresso

A smooth paved road runs downhill out of Quilatoa and in minutes I am in Zumbahua. It is early morning and the town is quiet. A few men stand around pick up trucks in the square. Women seated on the pavement, well wrapped in woolen shawls, sell snacks of fried dough. A quick breakfast in […]

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the art of waiting

The logistical need for a good reliable address while on long term tour can’t be overstated. Getting stuff sent, sometimes seems like an overwhelmingly difficult task, since it requires the effort and goodwill of people both at the point of sending and, also, at the point of reception. While there is certainly a lot to […]

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cancun

Cancun is never going to be my favourite place in Mexico. It’s a souless car orientated town that revolves around mega-supermarkets, shopping malls and mass market tourism but somehow when I get back to Mexico from Cuba another week slips away there. However, almost any place can be redeemed by people and my stay in […]

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gunahabibicanes peninsula

I finally reach the Gunahabibicanes Peninsula and head straight for the National Park Ecological Station for information. The station manager opens our exchange by offering to buy my bike. I explain that without a bike my life wouldn’t actually function and that it wasn’t really just a bike but also my companion and friend. He […]

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back in mexico

Once I hit the highway in Belize it is not long before I find myself cycling past a sudden rash of casinos and tax free shopping zones and then crossing yet another border back into Mexico. There have been quite a few border crossing in the last two weeks but this is not a particularly […]

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d(istrito) f(ederal)

Mexico City is the second biggest in the world and it seems like I could probably stay here for a very long time before it started to make much sense to me. However, living previously in Sao Paulo, the third biggest city in the world, for three and a half years has prepared me for […]

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entering the city

Planning isn’t always my strong point so, after visiting El Capulin, I return to Zitacuaro to pick up the things I left at the hotel and then have to cycle around 40 kilometres back up the same hill, past the butterfly sanctuaries, over the mountains, towards Mexico City. I leave Zitacuaro late and camp a […]

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queretaro

The trip from San Miguel to Queretaro is, in principal, an easy afternoon’s ride and I set off around midday, taking a quiet paved road to Jalpa, an almost non-existent village, with a nonetheless extremely impressive church. On the other side of Jalpa, the road turns to cobbles – visually charming but extremely wearing for […]

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birthday in gringolandia

What I love about touring on a bike without a fixed plan is a life of constant contrast. Having started the day waking in my tent in the middle of field, I arrive in San Miguel de Allende in the afternoon of my birthday, with little idea of where I am – I am here […]

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meeting the locals

Since our fortuitous meeting with Abraham in Tepehuanes, we have found ourselves hooked up with the Mexican biking community. Cocono Salvajes (Wild Turkeys) are one of Santiago’s three mountain bike groups and they have taken us decidedly under their generous wings. On Sunday morning we set off with about twenty-five Cocono riders on a on […]

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