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{ Tag Archives } magic

pacific dreams and real estate schemes

Santa Catalina is a fishing village circled by real estate sharks. There is already blood in the water and so it is only a matter of time before the feeding frenzy begins in earnest. But right now you can still meet a surfer from Devon there who attended the same boarding school as Winston Churchill […]

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a life afloat

Poet. Dreamer. Visionary. Prophet. Lunatic. Fool. Perhaps these are all words for the same thing. I am sitting on a floating island made of garbage – plastic bottles, mesh bags, wood pallets, plywood,  fabric, mirrors, shells – all tacked and glued together with a greater regard for the aesthetic effect than practicality – and the […]

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a jungle hideaway

I am trying to reach the border between Mexico and Guatemala but, on the spur of the moment, I pedal on straight past the turnoff to Frontera Echeverria on the Usumacinta River to make a quick visit to Bonampak, a Mayan archeological site in the middle of the jungle. It occurs to me that perhaps […]

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the jungle casts its spell

I wake in a damp tent after a night of heavy rain, pack my soggy things onto the bike and set of into the hazy dawn. As the sun rises the steamy air heats up. I soon turn off the main highway onto a diversion that will cut eighty kilometres from the journey and the […]

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the sound of a million wings

I reach Zitacuaro at dusk and after trying – and failing – to negotiate my way through the busy town in heavy peak hour traffic, following somewhat fanciful directions that focus on entirely on statuary as landmarks, I finally give up and find a cheap hotel for the night. The next morning, armed with further […]

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balneario aguas termales

As we ride towards the hot springs, in the morning, I start to feel unwell. I have been carrying some stomach bugs, probably giardia, with me from somewhere in the States. The only symptom so far has been a rather anti-social episode of farting when I was in Silver City but now I suddenly feel […]

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a hidden paradise

Urique Canyon is a magic place, sheltered and warm, and as I descend towards the bottom the notion of a white Christmas suddenly recedes. Entre Amigos offers a range of accommodation options, guest houses, a dormitory and camp sites. Initially, 90 pesos a night to camp seems steep, especially as normally I pay nothing for […]

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the border

We ride out of Hachita in the late afternoon knowing this will be our last night in the USA. The road runs straight to Mexico and is heavily patrolled by US border guards. The terrain is flat, with distant mountains, colonies of yuccas are the dominant vegetation. We ride until dusk and set up camp […]

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gila hot springs

The idea of the Gila Hot Springs has seen us through a few cold difficult moments over the past few days so a fourteen mile side trip with a thousand foot climb over a mountain to get there doesn’t deter us at all. We are also motivated by the thought of a ‘hiker box’, a […]

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another quest in search of a hot bath

In Yosemite Valley I heard rumours of hot springs around Mammoth Lake and so I quizz Doris and John for further information. The critical clue I already have at my disposal is a green church marking the turn off on the highway. John, however is able to furnish much more specific directions and a reasonable […]

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