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meeting argentina

ARGENTINA: PUERTO MADRYN — VIEDMA — BAHIA BLANCA — CORONEL DORREGO — SANTA CLARA DEL MAR — LA PLATA Sometimes it is all about the riding, sometimes it is all about the landscape, sometimes it is all about the people. Once I hit the Atlantic there is no option but to turn north on Ruta […]

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go east

CHILE/ARGENTINA: PUERTO MONTT — PUERTO MADRYN RAIN Puerto Montt must surely be one of the top contenders for the title of The Wettest City in the World and so unsurprisingly I arrive to torrential rain, combined with lashings of those famous Patagonian winds. From the snug confines of the hostel where I am the only […]

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industrialised! (or: first impressions of chile*)

CHILE: LOS QUEÑES — ROMERAL — CURICO — MOLINA — SAN CLEMENTE — COLBUN — LINARES — CHILLÁN Hell, no, there isn’t any pre-industrial here! Chile is a ‘developed’ nation. It’s a South American success story, all based on Chicago school economics. *To be honest, this is in fact my third foray into Chile’s territories […]

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san pedro de atacama

CHILE: SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA San Pedro is a tourist town in the northern desert of Chile and it is where most of the cycle tourists who brave the Lagunas route end up to restock and recuperate. When I arrive I head to the square and instantly encounter Eva and Jan in the company of […]

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exit peru

PERÚ: TRES CAÑONES — ESPINAR — LLAMAC — PUNO — YUNGUYO Perú is endlessly fascinating and l feel I have barely scratched the surface but there always comes a time to leave. With the Andean wet season setting in, the prospect of – maybe – getting to Patagonia this season, rather than next, starts to […]

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people and bikes

PERÚ: CUSCO Estrelita is the cycle tourist’s hostel of choice in Cusco and I find myself happily ensconced there – for a what stretches into almost a week – catching up with old friends and making new ones.

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faith, fiesta and fairground attractions

PERÚ: HUANTA — LA FIESTA DEL SEÑOR DE MAYNAY I arrive in Huanta with two things in mind: I need a shower and I need to wash my clothes. I have no reason to foresee any difficulties in finding a cheap place to stay where I can achieve these apparently modest goals. What I fail […]

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a long road

PERÚ: JUNIN –SAN PEDRO DE CAJAS — ACOBAMBA — PALCA — JAUJA — SAN AGUSTIN — HUANCAYO — PAMPAS — MAYOCC — HUANTA Peru is a big country and it’s a long long haul between Huaraz and Cusco. I’ve been utterly spoilt for beauty recently but somewhere in Peru’s central highlands it starts to take […]

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people and bikes

PERÚ: JUNIN I arrive in Junin hoping for a little comfort. I’ve been in my tent, mostly in fairly marginal campsites, just about every night since I left Huaraz and – aside from the springs at Viconga – haven’t seen hot water in that time. Since I am not really in favour of cold water, […]

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people and bikes

PERÚ: HUARAZ I haven’t come across that many other cyclists so far during my South American travels but it seems like maybe that is about to change.

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