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{ Tag Archives } snow and ice

beyond the end of the world

CHILE: ISLA NAVARINO — CALETA SANTA ROSA — PUERTO WILLIAMS I arrive in Puerto Williams already wondering how on earth I am going to retreat from this far edge of the world, where I have, half unwittingly, found myself. Transport off the island is notoriously unreliable and expensive; the short ferry trip to Ushuaia, across […]

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ice in the land of fire

CHILE: CALETA MARIA, TIERRA DEL FUEGO — CALETA SANTA ROSA, ISLA NAVARINO (BY BOAT) — PUERTO WILLIAMS * I despise GPS and electronic maps.

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perito moreno

ARGENTINA: EL GLACIAR PERITO MORENO Yes, it is a tourist circus. Yes, it’s ridiculously expensive. But don’t let that stop you going: — Perito Moreno is a thing of wonder and beauty that nothing can really detract from.

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ice fields

It’s not often that you find yourself somewhere that you never really imagined could exist.

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zig zag logic

PERÚ: HUARAZ — LA MERCED — RECAUY — HATUN MACHAY — PASTORURI — CHIQUIAN HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS Straight lines and direct routes simply don’t suit me – I am not that pragmatic. HATUN MACHAY On reaching the highway I overshoot the turn off to my chosen route south towards Cusco over the Pastoruri pass, by […]

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riding the sierra madre

We wake in a field, where we have all fallen asleep under a starry sky, encrusted in ice and set off again. Our aim now is to reach Zacatecas, as quickly as possible, while travelling on as few paved roads as we can manage. Our maps are all but useless for this endeavour and so […]

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the road to urique

I imagine, now that I am on the road to Urique, that it won’t be long before I get there but over fifty kilometres of steep unsurfaced road prove slow to negotiate. I spend the day climbing up and down steep hills, passing through a series of villages. After a particularly long steep climb I […]

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the possibility of a white christmas (in mexico)

Leaving Recowata, Jeff and Jason and I head in opposite directions. The boys make their way back to Creel while I set off towards Urique, 160 kilometres away. I camp alone, for the first time in over a month, near the highway and, in the morning, set off into a cold grey day. The weather […]

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getting cold in mexico

The trouble with mountains in winter, even in Mexico, is that they are cold. We are heading for Creel, which sits at an elevation of around 7500 feet and it has been a very long time since any of us have been below about 5000 feet. The nights are pretty chilly and it is very […]

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gila hot springs

The idea of the Gila Hot Springs has seen us through a few cold difficult moments over the past few days so a fourteen mile side trip with a thousand foot climb over a mountain to get there doesn’t deter us at all. We are also motivated by the thought of a ‘hiker box’, a […]

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