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{ Monthly Archives } July 2009

arriving in town

I start to dream of Whitehorse long before I get there. Whitehorse is the capital of the Yukon Territory – the territory has a population of around 32,000 and 26,000 of those people live in Whitehorse. It is my first break since Anchorage and my real introduction to Canada. I arrive on a day that […]

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the wake

I leave camp by 9AM and cycle without a break to the campsite at Takhini River, a campground fifteen kilometres off the main highway. At the site, a group of women and one man – who passed me earlier on the road in a convey of four vehicles – are occupying a site surrounded by […]

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urgent story

Strange messages on the side of the road.

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I discover that the mileage marked on the campsite guide I got from the tourist information in Beaver Creek refers to the old highway and is out by about fifty kilometres when I cycle to a campsite that isn’t there. Tired and hungry, I have to find somewhere to sleep on an unpromising section of […]

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my new spoon

Leaving my morning camp, it is not long before I come across another provincial camp-ground a mere fifty kilometres down the road. I turn in for a lunch break, beguiled by the fast flowing clear, rocky stream. A family are sitting at the prime table, next to the river, so I ride to the next […]

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the candian border

Somehow I was expecting a warm friendly welcome to Canada – I have no idea why. However, when I final arrive at the border I am confronted with a tall, neatly uniformed immigration officier (who reminds me of Guy Pearce, as the very officious, honest cop in LA Confidential). He questions me thoroughly as to […]

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finding a place to sleep

Finding somewhere to sleep as an itinerant on a bicycle is the biggest daily challenge. I have had some fantastic experiences with spontaneous hospitality offered by people that I meet on my way but, in general, I spend most of my time camping. The quality of my campsite makes a big difference to how agreeable […]

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a perfect campsite

Some days are perfect. I could have stayed here forever watching the sky and water change colour.

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ignore this sign

Some instructions are very hard to follow.

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the bus

On a whim, half way between Glennallen and Tok at around Mile 61 on the Tok Cut-off, just north of Slana, I pull into a general store of the kind that exists to service very small communities. There is a petrol pump and a shop which sells a wide assortment of nondescript goods and a […]

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