Skip to content

heading south on the coast

I set off from Babs and Dennis’ place after a three day respite from the road and start to head south down the Washington Coast. Babs and Dennis offer to drive me from their place to the highway but I am eager to get on my bike. After we say our goodbyes, I ride the seven miles from their house to the highway. Once there, I turn to the south and I am soon cycling towards the township of Forks.

Forks’ history might be in logging but its current claim to fame is being the setting of a series of vampire novels that have seized the collective imagination sufficiently to receive bus loads of tourists with a shaky grasp of the line between fiction and reality. Every business in town tries to find a touch of ‘twilight’ to encourage these lost souls through their doors. The Quileute, one of several local Native American tribes, don’t escape the spotlight of fictional celebrity. In the book, they are cast as werewolves, an insensitive twist on aspects of their own mythology, in which wolves play a central part.

As I approach the City of Forks Welcomes You sign there is a car load of giggling girls in front of it taking each others photos. Hotels display cryptic information such as “Edward Cullen didn’t sleep here” and the local grocery store announces that “Bella shops here.” None of it makes any sense to me.

I stop to buy a few groceries at the store that a fictional character named Bella apparently also shops at and then cycle out of town.

I am pleased to be on the road and moving again – independent. The last few weeks I haven’t been covering many miles and now there is a definite pleasure in simply moving forward. Despite the joys and comforts of staying with people, it is great to be alone on the road. The sun is bright and warm and I cycle without a break for 70 miles and camp for the night by Lake Quinault.

I set off again early the next morning keen to keep up my momentum.

Post a Comment

Your email is never published nor shared. Required fields are marked *