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getting to guachochi

Eventually we hit paved road again at Samachique, where we are supposed to meet Jason, Jeff’s brother who has been holidaying on the coast. We have only made 150 kilometres of ‘forward’ progress over the last three weeks but nonetheless we are exhausted and a day late. Jason is nowhere to be seen and so we decide to continue towards Guachochi in the hope of finding him there. There is still climbing to be done and over 90 kilometres to cover. We camp by the highway and the night-time temperature falls well below zero. On the highway, Jeff’s rim suddenly develops a frightening bulge.

Despite all this, we manage to arrive in Guachochi and find Jason on the entry into the rather bleak township. Food is foremost on everybody’s mind and so we go in search of something to eat.

The brothers reunited.

The brothers reunited.

Our first stop at El Rey de Tacos is unsatisfactory since neither Jeff or Jason eat meat and nothing else is on offer. I throw down a few indifferent burritos and we move on. Eventually are rewarded with the discovery of a seafood restaurant which more than satisfies all our expectations. Not only does the small establishment serve excellent fresh seafood but Pollo, the proprietor, becomes our firm friend, for what turns out to be an extended stay in Guachochi.

Prawn cevice

Prawn soup.

Pollo, our firm friend in Guachochi.

Pollo, our best friend in Guachochi. He feeds us excellent food and provides us with a mountain of information on diverse subjects.

We meet a few of the local cyclists outside Pollo's restaurant, which becomes one of our favourite haunts in Guachochi.

We meet a few of the local cyclists outside Pollo's restaurant which becomes one of our favourite haunts in Guachochi.

Once our hunger is assuaged we go in search of accommodation. We find a cheap hotel which provides us with a room with three huge beds and since the heating doesn’t work bed turns out the best place to be.

We find a hotel which provides us with a room with three huge double beds.

We find a hotel which provides us with a room with three huge double beds.

Jeff starts a new sewing project - another small frame bag for his bike.

Jeff starts a new sewing project - another small frame bag for his bike.

Guachochi doesn’t have a lot going for it but given the state of Jeff’s rim a quick escape is not on the cards. Jason discovers, by some strange co-incidence, that his rim is also damaged and after a fruitless expedition to the local bike shop the guys send frantic emails to Cass in the UK asking him to bring back new rims with him on his return. It transpires that getting hold of quality rims is going to take Cass some time but luckily he is happy to delay his return to Mexico in order to organise it.

Faced with the prospect of at least a week in Guachochi, we try to work out what we can do in the area that will keep us amused during this time. We decide on a hike in the Sinforasa Canyon but the fact that Jeff is now without transport makes it a trifle difficult. The canyon is about 20 kilometres out of town and after an abortive attempt to borrow a bike we decide to simply walk to the trailhead, even though 20 kilometres is a lot further by foot than on a bike.

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