Skip to content


On my way north, my first stop is Tikal.

Tikal is one of the largest pre-Colombian Mayan sites and has the distinction of having the tallest pyramid in the Americas. Since I am riding straight past it I stop to check it out but, as I am keen to get started on my jungle adventure, I don’t linger long: long enough, however, to camp on an expansive lawn outside the site where I met another touring cyclist – the first I’ve encountered since I parted company with Jeff, Jason and Cass in Zacatecas – and to be treated to dinner by French man visiting his son, who has been studying in Mexico.

In the morning, I get up at first light, breakfast while watching toucans jump nimbly around in the tree next to me, and then walk around the ruins before the tour buses start filling up the car park.

More piles of ancient stone...

...and this one is certainly impressive with towering pyramids peeping above the forest canopy...

...full of monkeys and a host of other wildlife.

Big pyramid.

Entrance to the site is carefully policed and access to the road north, that I want to follow, it transpires is inside the barriers.

I am a little reluctant to tell the officials my exact plans in case they decide, for my own good, to forbid me from carrying them out. However, apparently, I need a permit to go to Uaxactun, the next village and archeological site to the north, and so, slightly anxiously, I make my way to the administrative building and ask for my permit.

The men in the office have already heard about the girl on the bike and don’t me that many questions. In the space on the form where nationality should be entered the man filling it out simply writes ‘foreigner.’ Some distinctions simply aren’t important, it seems.

Armed with my official permission, I pack up camp and make my way back to the entrance of the site and, soon, after the paper is carefully scrutinised, I am on my way.

Innocuous enough, it seems...but the way ahead is said to be a wilderness of mud, wild beasts and rogues...

Post a Comment

Your email is never published nor shared. Required fields are marked *