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Leaving Little Corn requires a panga ride to Big Corn Island where I find space on a cargo boat heading to El Bluff. The journey is twelve hours overnight so in the interest of comfort I invest in a $4 hammock.

It is three weeks before I drag myself away from Lit'l Corn and find a berth on another cargo boat heading back to the Nicaraguan mainland.

Granada leaves me underwhelmed. Colonial architecture is all very nice but it doesn't move me much.

A spill on the road to Puerto Cabezas has given birth to an alien lump that doesn't seem to plan on hatching any time soon. (Note fox bite scar below the lump.) I stay in Granada a couple of days to get this beast checked out by a doctor before heading to Ometepe.

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