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{ Monthly Archives } May 2013

ingapirca livestock market

It’s market day in Ingapirca.

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wet feet, the inca road and a donkey

Setting off from Atillo into the hills, during a short break in the rain, my pack laden with food and camping gear I’m vaguely anxious. The way the locals direct me doesn’t match the route description I have photocopied from the guide book and there is absolutely no path to follow on the boggy wet […]

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I’ve chosen to head east from Riobamba in order to avoid the PanA. Correa, Ecuador’s charismatic and populist president, and his road building crews, have been very, very, busy, though, over the last few years in a frenzy of construction and so the alternative route which heads toward the fringes of the Ecuadorean Amazon is […]

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all about riobamba

I arrive in Riobamba ready for a ‘city break’ and all it can offer: a hot shower, somewhere to wash my clothes, a chance to dry everything out properly, a bit more culinary variety than is available in the tiny communities I’ve been passing through since I left Tumbaco and the possibility, perhaps, of a […]



It’s a long climb out of Salinas to approach Chimborazo but its a beautiful ride. Sometimes I just can’t help wanting it all. Despite having to backtrack 12km on the highway I rode yesterday, then head 20km north on the Ambato – Guaranda highway when, overall, I am trying to move southwards, and in the […]

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I am lured to Salinas by the promise of chocolate but what I discover there is far sweeter. I arrive, damp and extremely hungry, at the awkward hour of 6.45AM, after an uncomfortable night spent in a unprepossessing roadside campsite. Ecuadorans are not early risers and so nothing at all is open in the village […]

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mud and mist

Once I leave Angamarca it’s not long before clouds descend again. The road is a muddy quagmire and it’s time to pay for yesterday’s descent.

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real italian expresso

A smooth paved road runs downhill out of Quilatoa and in minutes I am in Zumbahua. It is early morning and the town is quiet. A few men stand around pick up trucks in the square. Women seated on the pavement, well wrapped in woolen shawls, sell snacks of fried dough. A quick breakfast in […]

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a circle

I have a confession to make: I’m not really a cyclist, at heart – I’m simply not as impassioned about bikes for their own sake as a truly zealous cyclist. And there is nothing that I love more than getting off my bike and going for a walk.

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