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{ Monthly Archives } June 2013

another italian mission

PERÚ: ENCAÑADA — CAJAMARCA Taking pictures is easy but sometimes I run out of words to tell the stories. In Encañada, I ask at the parish if there is anywhere I can put up my tent for the night. The place is beautiful with the amazing intricate carved woodwork that seems to indicate the presence […]

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mummies, mountains and big hats

PERÚ: LEYMEBAMBA — BALSAS — CELENDÍN Leymebamba is famous for it’s mummy museum. Over two hundred mummies were discovered in 1997 in a tomb in the cliffs dropping vertically into the nearby Laguna de los Condores.

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High above the river valley, two and a half hours walk up a rocky zig-zag trail, a crumbling pile of stones.

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first impressions of peru

The immigration official hails me from a restaurant on the other side of the road, where he is watching television. Making his way to the small shack – inconveniently placed on an embankment high above the road – that is the immigration post, he gets me to fill out a form, enters information in his […]



Check out my new super simple cooking set up: a Trangia burner, a bit of twisted wire for the pot to sit on and some flattened beer cans for a wind shield. The Trangia burner is so simple that nothing at all can go wrong with it. The only potential drama is going to be […]


exit south

The unexciting but essential bus journey to Quito/Tumbaco and back successfully accomplished, nothing remains but to cycle to the border. Bye bye, Ecuador.

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nice wheels



I am first alerted to something a little peculiar about Vilcabamba when I search for a place to stay in Loja via CouchSurfing or a WarmShowers host, mostly so that I have somewhere safe to leave my bike while I make the tedious journey north to pick up my tardy VISA card. Nothing surfaces in […]

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Reunited with my bike, back in Atillo, my mission is to leave Ecuador. The fact my new VISA card still hasn’t arrived in Tumbaco is a small impediment to this plan but nonetheless I head towards the border. The road drops down from Ecuador’s mountainous spine to the fringes of the Amazon jungle and apparently […]

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cuenca – a visual feast

I had no plan to visit Cuenca at all but when I attempt to return to Atillo where I have left my bike while walking in the hills it turns out to be a little more complicated than I imagined. A bus from Ingapirca drops me on the PanA at El Tambo but none of […]

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