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{ Monthly Archives } March 2014


CHILE: PUERTO NATALES — PUNTA ARENAS (VIA THE BEACH*) * See Skyler’s blog for route notes.

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puerto natales



pampas pedalling


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The wind rises like psychosis, a black mood. It is imbued with both menace and malice. It toys with me. A game of cat and mouse. It screams and curses. Mutters. Threatens. Pounces. Seizes. Worries. It has teeth. There is no fighting back. It takes possession of me completely, with the embrace of a lover […]

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perito moreno

ARGENTINA: EL GLACIAR PERITO MORENO Yes, it is a tourist circus. Yes, it’s ridiculously expensive. But don’t let that stop you going: — Perito Moreno is a thing of wonder and beauty that nothing can really detract from.

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untrustworthy winds

ARGENTINA: EL CHALTEN — EL CALAFATE I’d been promised that I was going to be blown out of El Chalten all the way to the first junction eighty or ninety kilometres away with barely a pedal stroke. It would take me maybe three hours to reach the ‘pink house’, a derelict hotel complex that provides […]

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entertained by an angel

Do not neglect to show hospitality to strangers, for thereby some have entertained angels unawares. (Hebrews 13:2) But, then again, some – and perhaps I am now among them – must surely also have been entertained by angels. — When I meet Flor for the first time, arriving uninvited at her house in the company […]

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ARGENTINA: EL CHALTEN When a group of hungry cyclists get together things can get out of hand. A fourteen kilo lamb and fourteen people. That makes sense, doesn’t it? The only other thing on the menu was bread. And wine.

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ice fields

It’s not often that you find yourself somewhere that you never really imagined could exist.

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CHILE/ARGENTINA: VILLA O’HIGGENS — CANDELERIO MANCILLA — EL CHALTEN Lakes, borders, bridges: there are always crossings to be made. The route between Villa O’Higgens and El Chalten is somewhat famous or infamous, depending on your predilections. * None of us felt the urge** to try the trail by Lago del Desierto as an alternative to […]

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