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{ Monthly Archives } April 2014

beyond the end of the world

CHILE: ISLA NAVARINO — CALETA SANTA ROSA — PUERTO WILLIAMS I arrive in Puerto Williams already wondering how on earth I am going to retreat from this far edge of the world, where I have, half unwittingly, found myself. Transport off the island is notoriously unreliable and expensive; the short ferry trip to Ushuaia, across […]

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ice in the land of fire

CHILE: CALETA MARIA, TIERRA DEL FUEGO — CALETA SANTA ROSA, ISLA NAVARINO (BY BOAT) — PUERTO WILLIAMS * I despise GPS and electronic maps.

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a sacrificial lamb

It’s all organised. Having ridden to the very end of a dead end road that goes to precisely nowhere*, now by flukey chance, I’m suddenly lined up to go on a four day boat jaunt via the fjords and glaciers to Puerto Williams. The captain and crew of the boat are mostly Argentinian and so […]

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why i didn’t go to ushuaia (or, how to avoid the end of the world)

Well, the border was closed. The river had risen and the men in uniform deemed it unsafe. I should ride to San Sebastian, cross the border there, and follow Highway No. 3. That is, back track 150 kilometres. And, then, 250 kilometres of pavement, traffic, towns. The river appears around thigh deep. I appeal to […]

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tierra del fuego

CHILE: PORVENIR — CAMERON — RIO BELLA VISTA — LAGO DESEADO — LAGO FAGNANO

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penguins

CHILE: TIERRA DEL FUEGO — PENGUIN COLONY

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