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{ Tag Archives } a place to stay

an astonishing family bike tour

On Monday morning, I ride out of Seattle, thankfully with considerably less trouble than I had riding into the city, to catch another ferry, this time from Edmonds to Kingston on the Washington Peninsula. On the peninsula, the small towns I pass through are reminiscent of scenes from Twin Peaks and I find it slightly […]

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salt springs

I leave Chris’ house in Nanaimo and ride to Crofton and straight onto a ferry about to embark for Salt Springs. Going to Salt Springs takes me off Vancouver Island and away from the main highway and, better still, Jane and Eric have a cabin on the island. I have their address tucked away somewhere […]

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Lasqueti is an island that comes with quite a fearsome reputation. It is off the grid, has few services or formal commercial enterprises and no vehicle ferry. Some people inform me that Lasquetians don’t really welcome outsiders and others merely resort to silent disapproval when I had tell them of my destination. Seeking information about […]

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I am lying on my back looking up at the stars and watching shredded muslin clouds unfurl across the sky. I wonder, a little, at the wisdom of my plan to sleep on a beach without a tent on Vancouver Island – sleeping on the beach in Croatia is one thing and in British Columbia […]

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The fourteen hour ferry ride from Prince Rupert to Port Hardy passes uneventfully enough. There are occasional whale sightings pointed out by the ship’s watch; humpbacks puff water vapour, a distant pod of orca put on an acrobatic display, a pair of porpoises swim alongside the boat – but I spend most of the time […]

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getting a move on

Eventually, I drag myself away from the revitalising waters of the springs and go back to my bike which I have left hidden in the bushes on the roadway. I have been tarrying the last few days, in Stewart and here in the Nisga’a valley, and I feel the need, now, to cover some miles. […]

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dragonfly lake

I continue on my way down the valley crossing a deep fast flowing bright green river. As the shadows lengthen, a sign indicating the Dragonfly Provincial Campground opportunely appears and I find myself on the shore of a narrow lake. Low mountains lie opposite, higher snow-covered mountains to one end of the lake and open […]

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on the cassiar highway

Before I leave Kinaskan Lake, I ask the fisherman camped at the next site for some line. I bought a couple of lures in Dease Lake inspired by my tantalising near success at Cottonwood River, which was a fishing experience inspiring and frustrating in equal measure. I want to repeat my the attempt to catch […]

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kinaskan lake

Restored by my pancake breakfast, I cycle another 20 kilometres or so and quickly come to the Kinaskan Lake Provincial Park. The last few camps have been hurried, rain-soaked affairs and I want to spread out and get my gear in order, so I pull in. It is early in the day and I have […]

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a temporary companion

Finally I get on the road and see the boy that dropped by my camp last night and we agree to ride together for a while. He is good company, happy to stop and explore, to pick berries. We talk all day about our trips, the people we have met, adventures and the road. Our […]

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