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{ Tag Archives } colombia

la tierra fria*

Rain on the roof throughout the night, a constant drip, water pooling near my head. Wind howling, rattling loose roofing, chilly gusts scuttling under the door and creeping into my sleeping bag with me. I am sleeping in a bare concrete cell of a room at the desolate finca, ironically named Campo Alegre**. I wake […]

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up, up, up

By the time my washing is dry, the blog updated and route information gathered two nights have gone by in Santa Rosa de Cabal. After a day and half of climbing, in the rain, I reach the edge of the park. It occurs to me somewhere towards the end of this period of time that […]

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santa rosa de cabal

There’s no doubt I’ve been riding hills – the descent into Santa Rosa was hair-raising at times – but in Los Nevados National Park, where I want to head next, I am going to encounter real mountains. Los Nevados National Park encompasses the highest area of the Central Cordillera in Colombia with a number of […]

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You come across the strangest things in the strangest places, sometimes.

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bird nerds in the cloud forest

Leaving Jardin, I’m tailed by a bashful teenage boy. Eventually, he gains enough courage to greet me and then we ride side by side. His bike is borrowed: no gears, but here single speed isn’t hip – it’s just what there is. Never mind the mountains. The boy is shy but he has a number […]

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some things you might see in jardin

Jardin is a ridiculously pretty coffee town in Antioquia. It’s said to be full of tourists but all of them seem to be Colombian and they blend in quite well. Some of the things you might see in Jardin on a Sunday morning, include: You will probably see a lot of ponchos, too.

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village people

The morning is normally all mine when I wake up in a tent but this camp site is a little exposed and, in the light of day, visible from the road. I pack and organise my gear and lug my things up the hill, push the bike under the barbed wire and climb over the […]

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Once my bike is back in shape – wheel relaced and gears changing smoothly – I’m keen to get on the road. Manuel tells me about a trocha* which drops below Armenia (de Antioquia, not to be confused with various other Armenias both in Colombia and beyond) down to the Cauca Valley, which he thinks […]

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medellin and san antonio de prado

I get spoiled in Medellin. A comfy bed and my own bath room. Stylish home cooked meals. Argentinian red wine. Interesting conversation. Can’t beat that. I don’t really feel any urge to leave the apartment. And so I don’t. Just once I venture out to buy some maps at the Instituto Geografico Agustin Codazzi. Oh, […]

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what’s hot and what’s not

Here in Colombia when it’s “hot” it can mean a couple of different things. My ride from Cartagena to Mompox was hot, dry and dusty. It wasn’t till I got to Mompox that I discovered that part of my route had taken me through areas that are considered a little warm in a more metaphorical […]

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