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horses in my dreams

ARGENTINA/CHILE : MENDOZA — TUNUYÁN — PAREDITAS — EL SOSNEADA — MALARGÜE — BARDAS BLANCAS — LAS LOICAS — TERMAS DE AZUFRE — EL PLANCHON In Mendoza, as the year turns, I imbibe a certain dissatisfaction that I’m not sure I really feel. Mendoza, in the grip of a savage heat wave, is full of […]

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postcards from ruta 40

ARGENTINA: CAFAYATE — SANTA MARIA — BELÉN — LONDRES — CUESTA DE ZAPATA — FAMATINA — CHILECITO — VILLA UNIÓN — SAN JOSÉ DE JÁCHAL — IGLESIA — CALINGASTA Ruta 40’s mystique is something akin to that of Route 66 in the States — it is the stuff of mythic road adventures. The young Ernesto […]

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abra de acay

ARGENTINA: SAN ANTONIO DE COBRES — LA POMA — CACHI — CAFAYATE After a very brief pit-stop in San Antonio de Cobres, which entirely wipes out my available Argentinian cash* supply I head off to cross Abra de Acay, Argentina’s highest pass. I’m still pretty tired after the trip from San Pedro so it’s not […]

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rail trail, bolivian style: (or, the best laid plans…)

BOLIVIA: UYUNI — SAN JUAN — SAN AUGUSTIN After almost a week of planning, bike maintenance, shopping and eating in Uyuni, we are ready to set off again. The plan – a simple one – is to cycle from Uyuni to San Pedro de Atacama in north-west Chile via a route known as Las Lagunas, […]

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BOLIVIA/CHILE: LA PAZ — CALAMARCA — PATACAMAYA — CALLAPA — SAJAMA — TAMBO QUEMADO — SALAR DE SURIRE — ISLUGA — COLCHANE Recently, in a somewhat self-indulgent moment, on somebody else’s blog, I was bemoaning my lack of inclusion in any ‘tribe’. But, really, one of the best – and perhaps most unexpected – things […]

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cañon de pato

PERÚ: SIHUAS — PASACANCHA — YANAC — YURACMARCA — CARAZ I drop down from the mountains in Sihuas only to be immediately confronted with climbing back out of the river valley and crossing the Cordillera Blanca and descending into the Cañon de Pato.

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back on the bike

My stay in the area of Mexico City and Puebla has turned out to be a very extended one. By the time I ride out of Puebla, heading south towards San Cristobal de las Casas, in Chiapas, it is almost two months since I first arrived in Mexico City and I have only ridden the […]

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sharing the road in mexico

As soon as we reach the highway, after twelve miles of dirt road, we are forced to contemplate the frightening prospect of sharing a narrow highway, with no shoulder, with giant trucks. The constant stream of huge rigs thundering by is terrifying. We spy a roadside cafe in the distance and retreat indoors to gather […]

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Silver City is the last town we will pass through in the USA. We linger a while, spending five nights on the lounge room floor of our hosts, before Jeff and I set off at around 5PM on a cold evening with snow predicted for the next day. Cass opts to spend another night in […]

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off to flagstaff

The road to Flagstaff winds over 70 miles first through the forest, then across the plains, and finally over a mountain or two. Despite the maps and compass, I get a little lost but it’s a very pleasant two day ride. Once the sun goes down everything freezes instantly. My drinking water is solid ice […]

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