CHILE/ARGENTINA: VILLA O’HIGGENS — CANDELERIO MANCILLA — EL CHALTEN Lakes, borders, bridges: there are always crossings to be made. The route between Villa O’Higgens and El Chalten is somewhat famous or infamous, depending on your predilections. * None of us felt the urge** to try the trail by Lago del Desierto as an alternative to […]
Also tagged argentina, border crossings, chile, friendsCHILE/ARGENTINA: CHILLÁN — PEMUCO — YANGAY — ANTUCO — SANTA BABARA — RALCO — LEPOY –LANQUIMAY — ICALMA — CUNCO — VILLARRICA — PUCON — COÑARIPE — PASO CARIRRIÑE — SAN MARTIN DE LOS ANDES — TRUFEL — SAN CARLOS DE BARILOUCHE * “When I was younger, I was a stock trader…,” was his somewhat […]
Also tagged argentina, border crossings, chile, friendsPERÚ: CAJATAMBO — OYON — YARAJHUANCA — HAUYLLAY — ONDORES — JUNIN I emerge from the Huayhaush in something of a state: I am becoming more than a little upset and confused by my status as a gringa tourist in Perú. My fundamental discomfort with tourism and the tourist industry is normally relatively neatly sidestepped […]
Also tagged perú, tourismPERŨ: HUAMACHUCO — PAMPAS — CONCHUCOS — SIHUAS I’ve been studying Tom and Sarah’s excellent blog for route ideas in this part of Perú and shamelessly stealing them. Thanks for blazing the way, guys!
Also tagged mountains, people, perú, wild placesPERÚ: CAJAMARCA — CAJABAMBA Ah, mountains! The sky. The road. The people. In Perú, in the mountains you enter a pre-industrial world. On the roads between Cajamarca and Cajabamba I am passed by half a dozen combustion engine vehicles, at the most. And while some villages are on the grid, just about everything is still […]
Also tagged mountains, people, perúIt’s a long climb out of Salinas to approach Chimborazo but its a beautiful ride. Sometimes I just can’t help wanting it all. Despite having to backtrack 12km on the highway I rode yesterday, then head 20km north on the Ambato – Guaranda highway when, overall, I am trying to move southwards, and in the […]
Also tagged ecuador, mountains, rain, volcanoOnce my bike is back in shape – wheel relaced and gears changing smoothly – I’m keen to get on the road. Manuel tells me about a trocha* which drops below Armenia (de Antioquia, not to be confused with various other Armenias both in Colombia and beyond) down to the Cauca Valley, which he thinks […]
Also tagged colombia, mountainsI can’t remember when Kelly first wrote to me but by the time it looks like we will finally meet an extensive correspondence between us already exists. When I leave my friend Lindsey in El Salvador it is to meet Kelly, who is travelling with her partner, Kurt. I set off with around five days […]
Also tagged bike bling, food, friends, hondurasAfter my tour of the Santo Tomas caves, I return to Vinales. I find the local market and stock up on food; my prize purchase is a giant watermelon which I struggle to strap onto my bike rack on top of my tent. I pass through the town and catch sight of an English woman […]
Also tagged cuba