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{ Tag Archives } ecuador

salinas

I am lured to Salinas by the promise of chocolate but what I discover there is far sweeter. I arrive, damp and extremely hungry, at the awkward hour of 6.45AM, after an uncomfortable night spent in a unprepossessing roadside campsite. Ecuadorans are not early risers and so nothing at all is open in the village […]

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mud and mist

Once I leave Angamarca it’s not long before clouds descend again. The road is a muddy quagmire and it’s time to pay for yesterday’s descent.

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real italian expresso

A smooth paved road runs downhill out of Quilatoa and in minutes I am in Zumbahua. It is early morning and the town is quiet. A few men stand around pick up trucks in the square. Women seated on the pavement, well wrapped in woolen shawls, sell snacks of fried dough. A quick breakfast in […]

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a circle

I have a confession to make: I’m not really a cyclist, at heart – I’m simply not as impassioned about bikes for their own sake as a truly zealous cyclist. And there is nothing that I love more than getting off my bike and going for a walk.

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road

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cotopaxi (or: the art of leaving)

I’m always leaving and so you think I’d be good at it but I’m not. It’s still a wrench, a sundering. On my last night in Tumbaco I return to the Casa de Ciclista to say goodbye to friends there. Once the leaving is done the unknown future becomes now and the world appears anew […]

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the art of waiting

The logistical need for a good reliable address while on long term tour can’t be overstated. Getting stuff sent, sometimes seems like an overwhelmingly difficult task, since it requires the effort and goodwill of people both at the point of sending and, also, at the point of reception. While there is certainly a lot to […]

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primus omnifuel

I love my Primus Omnilfuel stove. Apart from a brief, and ultimately disappointing, flirtation with a home-made al can stove in Mexico I have never strayed from it.* However, that said, the stove has been labouring for some time on a diet of poor quality dirty petrol and performing significantly below par. Magnus, from Primus, […]

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travails with tyres

I haven’t had a lot of luck with my tyres over the years. My original wire beaded Schwalbe XRs did really well, clocking up around 17 000 and 20 000 kilometres respectively, but the two folding XRs that replaced them, as needed, both had massive blowouts within around 4-5000 kilometres, which was far less satisfactory. […]

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bike bling

Gradually the lure of the sparkling world beyond Shimano is making itself felt – it could be a long and slippery slope.

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