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welcome to xela

We arrive in Xela early enough in the day to have ample time to find somewhere to stay and then address myself to the task of finding a good restaurant where I can celebrate my birthday in style. After an extremely satisfactory birthday dinner, Silke and I start to walk towards the guesthouse where we […]

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In Carmelita, I make my way to where my bike is stored. Conchita, the woman who has been minding it, when she learns of my encounter with the fox, takes the opportunity to reiterate her opinion that tourists should never wander the jungle unsupervised. When she finishes upbraiding me she offers me and my companion […]

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the bite

I had been expecting to return to Carmelita the same way that I arrived but I learn that there is an alternative route which will not only take me past two more archaeological sites but is also in far better condition since it doesn’t get the same amount of mule traffic as the trail to […]

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trouble in paradise

I strike out for Cayo Jutias, an island off the north-west coast accessible by a causeway, with high expectations. I have a copy of Lonely Planet’s Cycling Cuba and the beaches of Cayo Jutias are described in it as wild and pristine. As I cross the causeway towards the island, thunder rumbles around me and […]

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the great divide

We leave Pie Town and head for the mountains with snow and storms predicted for the next three days. The road seems innocuous, certainly no rougher than many of the gravel tracks I have followed since I left the coast, but within an hour of leaving I find myself sprawled on the ground, tangled up […]

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