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{ Tag Archives } mountains


PERÚ: CAJAMARCA — CAJABAMBA Ah, mountains! The sky. The road. The people. In Perú, in the mountains you enter a pre-industrial world. On the roads between Cajamarca and Cajabamba I am passed by half a dozen combustion engine vehicles, at the most. And while some villages are on the grid, just about everything is still […]

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mummies, mountains and big hats

PERÚ: LEYMEBAMBA — BALSAS — CELENDÍN Leymebamba is famous for it’s mummy museum. Over two hundred mummies were discovered in 1997 in a tomb in the cliffs dropping vertically into the nearby Laguna de los Condores.

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wet feet, the inca road and a donkey

Setting off from Atillo into the hills, during a short break in the rain, my pack laden with food and camping gear I’m vaguely anxious. The way the locals direct me doesn’t match the route description I have photocopied from the guide book and there is absolutely no path to follow on the boggy wet […]

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It’s a long climb out of Salinas to approach Chimborazo but its a beautiful ride. Sometimes I just can’t help wanting it all. Despite having to backtrack 12km on the highway I rode yesterday, then head 20km north on the Ambato – Guaranda highway when, overall, I am trying to move southwards, and in the […]

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mud and mist

Once I leave Angamarca it’s not long before clouds descend again. The road is a muddy quagmire and it’s time to pay for yesterday’s descent.

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a circle

I have a confession to make: I’m not really a cyclist, at heart – I’m simply not as impassioned about bikes for their own sake as a truly zealous cyclist. And there is nothing that I love more than getting off my bike and going for a walk.

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cotopaxi (or: the art of leaving)

I’m always leaving and so you think I’d be good at it but I’m not. It’s still a wrench, a sundering. On my last night in Tumbaco I return to the Casa de Ciclista to say goodbye to friends there. Once the leaving is done the unknown future becomes now and the world appears anew […]

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entering ecuador

First impressions of Ecudaor…

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model mountains (and the real world)

Full disclosure: I caught the bus from Soata to Guican to start my walk… and I caught the bus back again, stopping off at El Cocuy where everything is whitewashed with green accents and the town square boasts a scale model of the mountains I’d just been trekking. My plan to go to Venezuela appears […]

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