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{ Tag Archives } on the highway


CHILE: PUERTO NATALES — PUNTA ARENAS (VIA THE BEACH*) * See Skyler’s blog for route notes.

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industrialised! (or: first impressions of chile*)

CHILE: LOS QUEÑES — ROMERAL — CURICO — MOLINA — SAN CLEMENTE — COLBUN — LINARES — CHILLÁN Hell, no, there isn’t any pre-industrial here! Chile is a ‘developed’ nation. It’s a South American success story, all based on Chicago school economics. *To be honest, this is in fact my third foray into Chile’s territories […]

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folk heroes and history lessons

ARGENTINA: ON THE HIGHWAY Roadside shrines are a ubiquitous sight in many parts of Latin America but in Argentina they are particularly elaborate and colourful affairs. While they range considerably in size and complexity – some are simple structures, nestled under the puny branches of a scrubby bush, containing only a single icon, while others […]

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postcards from ruta 40

ARGENTINA: CAFAYATE — SANTA MARIA — BELÉN — LONDRES — CUESTA DE ZAPATA — FAMATINA — CHILECITO — VILLA UNIÓN — SAN JOSÉ DE JÁCHAL — IGLESIA — CALINGASTA Ruta 40’s mystique is something akin to that of Route 66 in the States — it is the stuff of mythic road adventures. The young Ernesto […]

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las lagunas: (or – exactly when does ‘classic’ really just mean ‘past its time’?)

BOLIVIA/CHILE: SAN AUGUSTIN — ALOTA — LAGUNA HEDIONDA — LAGUNA COLORADA — SOL DE MAÑANA — LAGUNA CHALVIRI — LAGUNA BLANCA — SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA The good, the beautiful, the bad, the sad, the ugly. Ah, life. … SOLITUDE: I have exchanged the pleasures of company and shared meals for the more austere joys […]

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exit south

The unexciting but essential bus journey to Quito/Tumbaco and back successfully accomplished, nothing remains but to cycle to the border. Bye bye, Ecuador.

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Reunited with my bike, back in Atillo, my mission is to leave Ecuador. The fact my new VISA card still hasn’t arrived in Tumbaco is a small impediment to this plan but nonetheless I head towards the border. The road drops down from Ecuador’s mountainous spine to the fringes of the Amazon jungle and apparently […]

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I’ve chosen to head east from Riobamba in order to avoid the PanA. Correa, Ecuador’s charismatic and populist president, and his road building crews, have been very, very, busy, though, over the last few years in a frenzy of construction and so the alternative route which heads toward the fringes of the Ecuadorean Amazon is […]

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what’s hot and what’s not

Here in Colombia when it’s “hot” it can mean a couple of different things. My ride from Cartagena to Mompox was hot, dry and dusty. It wasn’t till I got to Mompox that I discovered that part of my route had taken me through areas that are considered a little warm in a more metaphorical […]

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colombia impressions

Macaws, coarse and strident, screaming overhead. Glorious blue, red, yellow. A pair of quizzical toucans. Steamy swamps. Endless music blaring distorted from over-sized speakers. The last dancers still swaying in the morning light. The road before me. Hot blacktop and traffic. Dust rising under the wheels of trucks. Buses speeding past, inches away, boys hanging […]

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