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where the wild things are

The road between Dos Lagunas and Rio Azul is considerably less demanding than the first leg of my jungle adventure and so it’s early afternoon when Rio Azul comes into view. Rio Azul is a much larger work camp than Dos Lagunas, with numerous cabins and buildings surrounding a large cleared area, but it is […]

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Uaxactun is a mere 23 kilometres from Tikal on a beautifully surfaced gravel road and the only thing that momentarily impedes my progress is a thorn-induced puncture. When I arrive, on the basis of a last minute tip from an ex-pat German girl, living in El Remate, I seek out Antonio, who is one of […]

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On my way north, my first stop is Tikal. Tikal is one of the largest pre-Colombian Mayan sites and has the distinction of having the tallest pyramid in the Americas. Since I am riding straight past it I stop to check it out but, as I am keen to get started on my jungle adventure, […]

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Despite the doubts raised by my visit to Bonampak, the following day at the river frontier between Mexico and Guatemala while I am trying to negotiate a boat to Bethel on the Guatemalan side of the river the following day I find myself attached to a group of twenty or so young Mexican university students […]

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a jungle hideaway

I am trying to reach the border between Mexico and Guatemala but, on the spur of the moment, I pedal on straight past the turnoff to Frontera Echeverria on the Usumacinta River to make a quick visit to Bonampak, a Mayan archeological site in the middle of the jungle. It occurs to me that perhaps […]

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la venta

Leaving Coatzacoalcas, I decide to cycle by La Venta. La Venta is an archeological site that contains the traces the Olmec, of one of the oldest civilizations in the Americas. This civilization arose around 1200 B.C, although the La Venta site dates from around 900 B.C. I ride to La Venta from Coatzacoalcas on a […]

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quarenta casas

We leave Ejido el Largo and have more climbing to do on slick icy roads to reach Quarenta Casas, another archaeological site, which we plan to investigate. The site is, apparently, closed to the public for reasons which are not entirely clear but Jeff, the Spanish speaker of our group, manages to persuade the two […]

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mexican mountain roads

Leaving Nueves Casas Grandes we ride towards the mountains again – trying to flee the traffic on the busy highways linking the major towns. We pass Paquime, the site of the ruins of an ancient settlement and spend an hour wandering around before setting off again in the dusk to find a camp site. Our […]

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