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{ Tag Archives } wild places

el mirador

In the morning, I cook breakfast, break camp and walk less than a hundred metres before emerging from the trees into a clearing surrounded by a variety of more or less ramshackle structures dotted around a rough football pitch. I survey the scene to identify the building emitting smoke and then make my way towards […]

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walking to el mirador

The remains of the ancient city of El Mirador is one of the earliest Mayan sites yet discovered. It sits deep in the jungle not far from the border between northern Guatemala and Mexico. While most people are content to simply visit the nearby and much more famous and, therefore, accessible Tikal, El Mirador is […]

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getting my feet muddy again

I head towards Calakmul, not primarily to see the ruins, but to enter the jungle again. Calakmul is 60 kilometres off the main highway, deep in the wilderness. I am slowed to a snail’s pace on the ride in by my recent purchase of a field guide to Mexican birds. I am halted every few […]

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isla jaina

Looking at my map, Isla Jaina catches my attention, for some reason. I know nothing of the place but the map indicates that there is an archeological site on the island – which is part of another biosphere reserve – at the end of a twenty kilometre dead end track. I take the turnoff towards […]

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flamingo traces

The Yucatan Peninsula is topographically pretty bland, which is a polite way of saying flat (and, to some, verging on dull), but what it loses in terms of terrain, it more than makes up for it in terms of biodiversity. The coastal regions are made up of extensive wetlands which are home to an incredible […]

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gunahabibicanes peninsula

I finally reach the Gunahabibicanes Peninsula and head straight for the National Park Ecological Station for information. The station manager opens our exchange by offering to buy my bike. I explain that without a bike my life wouldn’t actually function and that it wasn’t really just a bike but also my companion and friend. He […]

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where the wild things are

The road between Dos Lagunas and Rio Azul is considerably less demanding than the first leg of my jungle adventure and so it’s early afternoon when Rio Azul comes into view. Rio Azul is a much larger work camp than Dos Lagunas, with numerous cabins and buildings surrounding a large cleared area, but it is […]

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into the wilderness

I set off through the jungle and the road is manageable, if not relaxing. No one state lasts for so long that it is completely overwhelming. So the day passes, negotiating patches of mud and fending off clouds of mosquitoes while toucans flap from tree to tree overhead, turkeys, guans and carassows stalk across the […]

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We set out from Guachochi towards Sinforosa Canyon on foot and cover the 20 odd kilometres in a few hours with the help of a couple of lifts from locals in the back of pickup trucks. We hike down to a suspension bridge that marks the end of vehicle roads and camp for the night […]

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the great divide

We leave Pie Town and head for the mountains with snow and storms predicted for the next three days. The road seems innocuous, certainly no rougher than many of the gravel tracks I have followed since I left the coast, but within an hour of leaving I find myself sprawled on the ground, tangled up […]

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